It is worth practicing a couple of pucker stitches on two scrap pieces of material before going at the moccasin so you can get to grips with the ratio of sole edge to vamp edge material consumed with each stitch – the Conover’s give a good detailed description of the stitch used to make these puckers and some good line illustrations too.įinishing attachment of vamp to sole using whip stitch.Īs the puckering progresses you will come to the point where the sole edge equals the vamp edge in length (as more of the sole than the vamp is taken up per stitch) leading up to where the tacking thread secures one to the other. Symmetrical (…ish) puckers creating toe box. This makes little difference other than the seething internal OCD driven rage of someone who likes things to look neat – hence I started in the middle and worked to the edges. Both give good results but you may find if you lack pucker size consistency your puckers start at asymmetrical places on the vamp in the finished footwear. You now have a choice to begin the pucker stitch from the centre of the moccasin toe out to one side and then repeat on the other or starting at one side and puckering round the toe and finishing at the other side. Tack the vamp to the sole by running thread from the centre toe end of the sole through the centre toe end of the vamp, up the vamp, through and back out both sole and vamp, before angling the thread at 90 degrees and tacking the vamp to the sole at the side of the pattern pieces. There are essentially two pieces of buckskin to cut – the vamp (sits on top of your foot) and the sole which will wrap around the back of your heel and attach to the canvas gaiter. Scale up the moccasin pattern provided in the appendix section of the Snow Walkers Companion by using the suggested % increases and then adding or subtracting an inch here and there depending on your foot size.
#SIDE SEAM 1PIECE MOCCASIN PATTERN PLUS#
In terms of thread you will want something along the lines of wax cotton, linen or as in the following example artificial sinew (sold as Dacron by bow making suppliers).įigure out the size of moccasin required obviously taking into account the size of your feet and less obviously the fact that buckskin will stretch slightly after use and remember for this particular winter attire you will be wearing a minimum of three woollen socks plus a duffle cloth boot liner ( see blog by Danny). Where the Conover’s book provides a scaled down pattern and fairly simplistic instruction this blog hopes to show a little of the detail involved in each step of the manufacture photo by photo.īefore you even think about making moccasins you will need to acquire or better still make some smoked buckskin for the foot wrap and then get hold of some canvas for the gaiter part of the footwear.
Place the fringe piece ontop of the toe piece and sew along the top of the rectangle and 1/2″ from that seam.This blog leads on from an earlier post by Danny on Winter Boot Liners and again takes inspiration from the excellent winter camping text book The Snow Walkers Companion by Garret and Alexandra Conover. I cut the fringe and sole out of Suede and the rest of the slipper is made out of recycled leather from an old coat The video also gives you tips and tricks when sewing leather
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